Thursday, October 14, 2010

Dine Green At Murray Circle, Marin's Only Michelin-Starred Restaurant

By Gary Diedrichs

Everyone knows San Francisco's Bay Area is a foodie heaven. But even here, Murray Circle is unique, an extraordinary green restaurant in Marin County's historic and beautiful Sausalito.

Murray Circle is located in Cavallo Point Lodge, America's newest luxury hotel and spa in a national park. The entire lodge is certified green (LEED Gold) by the U.S. Green Building Council and is situated in historic Fort Baker, a former military post at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge with jaw-dropping views across San Francisco Bay. The restaurant was once the enlisted men's barracks, and its tin ceilings and fireplaces have been carefully restored. It's fronted by an old fashioned front porch, perfect for dining al fresco.

Then there's the star chef, Joseph Humphrey. In Murray Circle's first year, 2009, he won it a Michelin star -- and today it remains the only restaurant in Marin to have one. Humphrey had garnered a Michelin star before, when he was heading up the kitchen at Meadowood, in the Napa Valley. He's also trained at top restaurants in San Francisco and New Orleans.

Partnered with Humphrey is another Bay Area culinary star, pastry chef Ethan Howard. A few years back Gayot, the respected restaurant guide, named him one of America's top 5 pastry gods. Before coming to Murray Circle, he headed up the pastry-making at Bouchon, one of legendary chef Thomas Keller's properties in Yountville, in California Wine Country. He further honed his skills at Keller's flagship, The French Laundry.

The food philosophy at Murray Circle is straightforward: deliciously creative fare that springs from the organic, artisan producers of Marin and its environs. Eating local is all the rage now, but not many restaurants take it this far or this well. When that perfectly cooked Pacific cod arrives on your plate, you'll already know what West Marin fisherman caught it -- it tells you on the menu. Ditto for the local farmers and ranchers who raised the organic veggies, the meats and poultry.

One test of a restaurant's value is: "Do I feel it was worth the money?" That doesn't necessarily mean the food has to be dirt cheap. Considering its outstanding quality, Murray Circle is a great value -- and surprisingly affordable. The most expensive entree is priced under US$30. Fish and shellfish mains at dinner are all listed at under US$20. And how's this for a deal: a 4-course lunch tasting menu (which includes dessert) is priced at only US$25.

In these tight economic times, there are still more ways to experience Murray Circle's kitchen for very little money. For example, order from the menu at the adjoining Farley Bar. The choices are interesting and affordable. How about an oyster po'boy for only US$9? Organic popcorn dusted with chili-lime or truffle for US$5? Pork rilettes with homemade pork rinds (chicharrones) for US$10? Another tip: go for breakfast and sit on the front porch. With the glorious views, you can enjoy a classic eggs benedict or homemade granola. It's the best breakfast spot in Marin County.

As you might expect, staff is well trained and knowledgeable about the menu. And very attentive. We asked for the cream and sugar to be taken away from our table (we don't use it in our coffee), which it was. But then other servers tried to bring it back. Twice.

Great drink goes with great food. And here, too, Murray Circle does not disappoint. Director of wines Dan O'Brien seeks out small vineyards that use organic or biodynamic methods. From the bar, there are equally interesting options. You may want to try a house cocktail called a fennel sour. It's made from house-infused fennel vodka. Among the non-alcoholic standouts is something called the tide turner. Its base is pineapple juice, freshly squeezed, plus lime and pomegranate grenadine.

Next time you're in San Francisco, go green. Go Murray Circle.

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